Broad Peak Climb
Duration:
55 days
Next Departure:
June 2022
Airport:
Islamabad
Reference:
BP100A
Summary:
Broad Peak is the world's 12th highest mountain. Gasherbrum 4, K2, Mitre Peak and Chogolisa form the rest of an astounding circle of mountain giants have been called 'the throne room of the Gods'. This stunning trek starts in Askole and follows the Braldu gorge to the snout of the Baltoro Glacier, which then can lead to Concordia. This climb is one of the toughest in the world and require absolute technical climbing skills. This is one of the world’s most stunning mountains; it is wild and remote with scenery of unmatched grandeur. The Broad Peak is situated on the Pakistan and China border in the mighty Karakorum Range. The exact height of the peak is 8,047 meters/26,400 ft.
Itinerary:
Day 1: ISLAMABAD
On arrival transfer the group to hotel in Islamabad. You will meet your guide in the afternoon at the hotel for a trip briefing and gear check. If the flight lands late night the briefing will be held next day.
Day 2: Fly to SKARDU (45 min Flight) or Drive to Chilas (10-12 Hours Drive)
a) Weather permitting, we take a spectacular flight to the high mountain region of Baltistan in the north east. On a clear day we should be able to see Nanga Parbat (8124m) and K2 (8611m) towering above all other mountains. (It is quite possible adverse weather in Islamabad or Skardu may affect our flight plans and make it necessary to drive by the Karakoram Highway to Skardu, a journey of approx two days).
b) In case of cancellation of flight drive 10-12hrs by air conditioned coach/car to Chilas (480km) on the Karakoram highway. Overnight at Shangrila Indus View Hotel or Panorama hotel
Day 3: Drive to Skardu from Chilas/Rest Day (2340m/7677ft)
a) Overnight Mashabrum Hotel. Preparations for our trek and depending on our time of arrival into Skardu, there may be time to visit the town and possibly an excursion to Kachura Lake situated at the edge of the valley. Skardu is the regional capital of Baltistan, lying at the edge of a broad floodplain that is the confluence of the Shyok, Indus and Basha Rivers.
b) If we are driving the road journey today will be 7-8 hrs to Skardu (275km). On route are spectacular views of Nanga Parbat (8125m) overnight Hotel.
Day 4: Drive to Askoli (3000m/9842ft) Approx 7-8 hrs
Jeep drive. It takes about six hours to drive from Skardu to Askolie or near Askolie. The drive through the Braldu Gorge is guaranteed to knock your socks off. Overnight in tents.
Day 5: Trek to Jola (3200m/10498m) Approx 6-8 hrs
After considerable organisation of equipment, supplies and porter loads for the journey ahead, we commence trekking towards Jola. The walk from Askoli to Jola is on an easy gentle plain and can be done in 6 to 8 hours. We cross the snout of the Biafo Glacier on the way. The first sight of the pinnacles of the Paiyu Group is stunning. Overnight in tents.
Day 6: Trek to Paiyu (3450m/11318ft) Approx 7-8 hrs
We follow the Braldu and the Biaho rivers to a river’s edge campsite. On the way we have to cross the Domurda River coming out of Choktoi and Panmah Glaciers. This crossing is done on a ‘garari’ or on a bridge upstream. Depending upon the time it takes for the crossing, the walk can take 8 hours or more. The Masherbrum Group may be glimpsed to our right via the Xiangang Valley. The range is a vast array of peaks that extend almost the full length of the southern side of Baltoro. Walking conditions are hot and dry and care must be taken to prevent sunburn.
Day 7: Paiyu – Rest Day (3450m/11318ft)
Rest day. Wash up, relax, read, climb on a steep ridge behind the camp, sing and dance with the porters! Depending upon the size of the party, goats or a goat will be sacrificed and meat will be distributed to the porters as a form of thanksgiving and to bring us good luck on our next day’s walk on the Baltoro.
Day 8: Trek to Kurbutse (3930m/12893 ft) Approx 6-8 hrs
Trek on Baltoro Glacier. Six to eight hours of walking. A tough day as we climb on the rocky moraines of the Baltoro, but the sight of Baltoro pinnacles and Paiyu Peak is astounding! An earlier alternative campsite is Liligo, but there is no water there. We will cross some gushing streams on the way.
Day 9: Urdukus (4050m/13287) Approx 3-4 hrs
A short 4 hour plus walk on the rocky moraines and ablation valley of the Baltoro. We will cross a couple of icy side glaciers on the way, where we may have our first sight of Broad Peak and the Gasherbrums. The historical campsite is located on a grassy slope high above the Baltoro and commands one of the most intense mountain views in this world. The campsite was prepared by the Duke of Abruzzi in the beginning of this century.
Day 10: To Goro II (4380m/14370 ft) Approx 6-7 hrs
This is a tough day’s walk on the undulating Baltoro. However, the footing becomes easy as the rocks become smaller and smaller as we move up the Baltoro. It takes about 7 hours to get to Goro II, where we'll walk right up the centre moraine of the Baltoro. As Masherbrum emerges on the right, it takes our breath away and so does Gasherbrum IV right in front of us. Goro is a cold campsite and has a great view of the Muztagh Tower.
Day 11: Concordia (4650m/15255 ft) Approx 4-5 hrs
A special day today as we trek into Concordia and enjoy our first views of K2 and broad peak (weather permitting!). This location must be considered one of the world's most spectacular camps, as it is fully surrounded by stunning peaks. As we leave Goro II, the Biange Glacier to the north provides a superb view up to Mustagh Tower (7284m), one of the most difficult mountains in the Karakoram to climb. The trail continues along fairly easy rolling slopes of moraine marked by cairns and then passes among ice towers or seracs as we approach the colliding glaciers at Concordia. Mitre Peak (6030m) rises to our right, with Golden Throne (Baltoro Kangri) (7312m) beside it, while the Gasherbrum Group is directly before us. The expanse of Broad Peak (8050m) is to the left and finally K2 (8611m) looms above the ridge towering over the Godwin Austen Glacier 12 kilometres away.
Day 12: Broad Peak Base Camp Approx 4-5 hrs
Our schedule is somewhat flexible according to the prevailing weather conditions and group preference. Our objectives are to reach Broad Peak Base Camp and prepare for the ascent tomorrow.
Day 13-45: The Climb
These days are reserved for the climb while the potters will be available at any time for assistance at the base camp.
Day 46: CONCORDIA (4650m/15255 ft) Approx 4-5 hrs - We begin our return trek today to Concordia.
Day 47: Hike to Goro II (4380m/14370 ft) Approx 4-5 hrs - We continue descending first to Goro II where we have magnificent views of the surrounding granite spires and towers. Camp
Day 48: Trek to Urdukus (4050m/13287) Approx 3-4 hrs - We continue our descent of the Baltoro glacier, today reaching as far as Urdukas where we make camp off the glacier for the first time in several days.
Day 49: Trek to Paiyu (3450m/11318ft) Approx 8-10 hrs - Crossing the Baltoro to its north side beneath the towers of Uli Biaho we finally climb down its snout to reach a good trail back to the spring oasis of Paiyu.
Day 50: Trek to Jola (3200m/10498m) Approx 6-7 hrs - Following the Braldu River downstream, we make the detour into the Panma Valley to the bridge across its tributary to reach Jhola or Korofon
Day 51: Trek to Askoli (3000m/9842ft) Approx 3-4 hrs - The final day of trekking to the village of Askole. Here we say goodbye to our porters who will return to their villages.
Day 52: Drive to Skardu (2340m/7677ft) Approx 5-6 hrs - Making an early start we drive to Skardu through the relatively verdant Shigar Valley. We check into the Hotel and the afternoon is free for sightseeing
Day 53: Fly Islamabad or Drive to Chilas - a) Weather permitting we will fly to Islamabad today, on arrival transfer to the Invite Inn Guest House for overnight. b) In case of flight cancellation it is necessary to drive to Chilas and overnight at the Chilas Inn or Panorama hotel on the banks of the Indus.
Day 54: Islamabad
Extra 'cushion' day! *Note: Day 20 will be used as a 'cushion' day in case of delays in travel due to weather, route change, health, acclimatisation issues during the trek, etc.
Day 55: Trip Concludes in Islamabad
After breakfast you will be transferred to the airport for onward travel.
Important Information:
The above schedule should be taken as a guide only. Inclement weather may cause delays in our journey, whether we are on foot or travelling by vehicle. Our schedule has been planned to allow for variations and where necessary, spare days will be used to compensate for these changes. Our guide reserves the right to make modifications or alterations to the trip schedule in the best interests and safety of all involved. A flexible approach will allow us to efficiently and effectively achieve trip objectives.